I’m vain and I’m conflicted about it.

As I’ve gotten older, I’ve often felt silly for caring so much about some forehead creases, uneven skin texture, and wrinkles around my eyes. But they do bother me.

My skincare routine is my therapy. Some people like to workout to unwind. I gua sha.

On my 40th birthday—bang in the middle of a raging pandemic—I remember looking into the mirror only to realise that my “age defying” products weren’t defying much of anything. The fine lines that could once be coaxed into submission with some hyaluronic acid just didn’t do that anymore.

When I asked people with perennially smooth skin what they were doing, I always got the same answer: Botox. I have nothing against Botox, but my bank account does. Plus a deathly fear of needles has prevented me from complete surrender.

And this is when my journey with retinoids began.

What are retinoids?

If you’re unfamiliar with retinoids, they are derivatives of Vitamin A that have been used in dermatology since the 1970s.

Fun fact: starting in our 20s, we start to lose about 1% of our skin’s collagen every year. As that happens, our skin starts to sag and wrinkle. Retinoids work to counteract that.

According to Dr. Hope Mitchell in a story for the New York Times, they “are perfect for reducing fine lines and large pores, improving skin texture and evening out skin tone”. Retinoids are also super beneficial for acne and help stimulate collagen production (a protein that boosts skin’s firmness and elasticity) in the long term.

But not all retinoids are created equal. Retinol and retinaldehyde are the less active forms of retinoids available over the counter, while tretinoin is the super potent version and available via prescription only.

A 2015 clinical trial found that when women between the ages of 40-55 used a retinol product daily for a year, it reduced the appearance of crow’s feet by 44% and skin discolouration by 84%. Another clinical trial from 2009 reported that daily use of a retinol cream over a 26-week period significantly reduced the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

General consensus from dermatologists is that 25 is your tipping point year: it’s at this age that your body starts to pull the brakes on cell turnover and collagen production. If you’re a 20-something considering when to start including retinoids in your skincare routine, this is a good goal post.

(Side note: An extra benefit of starting on retinoids in your 20s is that you will get more diligent with sunscreen. This is a non-negotiable if you’re going to play with actives. None of your fancy lotions and potions will work effectively if you’re not doing the bare minimum of daily sunscreen application.)

Too much of a good thing is…not good.

Being something of a skincare junkie but also a retinol rookie back in the pandemic, I knew that I had to look beyond the fear-mongering and marketing and do some digging to find a brand that worked.

After what felt like federal investigation levels of research, I found a retinoid I could trust: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6 (0.06% retinaldehyde). After opening up the opaque plastic tube, I did the one thing you’re not supposed to do: I slathered it all over my face for the next 5 days.

Turns out, retinoids are like edibles; you’re always supposed to start it low and slow. What that means is you need to start with a low percentage of the active and use a pea-sized amount of product evenly across your face twice a week to build tolerance. Once you build tolerance over a month, you can then start using it daily.

I obviously didn’t know that at first, so after a few days of abuse, my skin got super itchy, red, and started flaking. This retinoid-induced shedding is commonly referred to as “the purge”.

But beauty should not be pain. If you use your retinoid wisely (i.e. start low and slow), you may have light irritation and flaking before your skin settles down. Pro tip: if you find retinol irritating, try sandwiching it between two layers of moisturiser (moisturise→retinol→moisturise) to help build tolerance.

After a week of pain, I did what any grown woman should have done in the first place: I spoke to a dermatologist. I used a pea-sized amount only, stuck to areas of my skin that bothered me (i.e. eyes and forehead), followed it up with a deeply hydrating cream after, and avoided using any other acids. Within days, my face healed, revealing poreless skin that exuded a glow that can only be described as “retinol shine”.

I had avoided retinoids all these years because my skin is sensitive thanks to rosacea triggered by heat, stress, and hormones. There’s a reason why tried and true ingredients like retinoids aren’t for everyone. For one, people with sensitive skin can’t tolerate high actives. My rosacea-prone skin put me in that category, which is why I didn’t attempt prescription grade tret for my first foray into retinoids. And frankly, after seeing amazing results from an OTC product using retinaldehyde, I don’t think I want to.

Common misconceptions

#1: All retinoids are the same. Nope. Brace yourself: we’re going to nerd out a little here. For Vitamin A to work effectively on human skin, it must be converted to its biologically active form called retinoic acid. Each form of Vitamin A must convert along what’s called ‘the Vitamin A pathway’ on its way to becoming retinoic acid.

This pathway looks something like this:
retinyl ester > retinol > retinaldehyde > retinoic acid

Weaker forms of Vitamin A (i.e. esters) require more steps to convert and hence are the least potent (and also the cheapest to formulate with). Retinol requires fewer steps to convert, while retinal is just one step away, which also makes it one of the best and most potent over-the-counter retinoids.

#2: You shouldn’t use retinoids around the eyes. If you don’t already know by now, eye creams are a complete scam. Unless you’re using one with retinol. It’s a powerful ingredient with powerful results, so you must use it with care. A retinol cream specifically formulated for the eyes is less potent as the skin in that area is thinner. Another common misconception is that retinoids thin out the skin. Not only is this untrue, it’s the exact opposite. Retinoids actually help thicken the skin by compacting the stratum corneum (top layer of the skin) and thicken the epidermis. If you suffer from dry eyes though, be warned that using retinol can aggravate that further. Something to consider.

#3: Retinol exfoliates your skin. Retinoids are not exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which break down the bonds that hold dead skin to the surface. They’re antioxidants that promote cell turnover and encourage the skin to regenerate. While retinoids do cause flaking, this is a temporary side effect as your skin builds tolerance and shouldn’t be mistaken for exfoliation.

#4: You can’t mix retinol with Vitamin C. My good people, please don’t believe influencers who can barely research and/or read scientific literature before coming to such misguided conclusions. A 2014 research paper has shown that a combination of antioxidants like Vit C and retinoids work brilliantly together to defend the skin against environmental stressors, when combined with sunscreen. In my humble opinion, having and maintaining good skin really just boils down to three things: Vitamin C and sunscreen in the day, and Vitamin A (i.e. retinoid) at night.

So, what should you be looking for?

If you’re in the market for an over-the-counter retinoid, you need to look explicitly for ‘retinol’ or ‘retinal’ in the ingredients list and check to see where it falls on the long list of ingredients used in the formulation.

Any product with encapsulated or stabilised retinol/retinal tends to be more effective. Any product claiming it contains ‘Vitamin A derivatives’, ‘retinoid complex’, or anything that doesn't explicitly list retinol or retinal in its ingredients, is probably using Retinyl Palmitate, a less effective ingredient. Avoid.

Finally, watch out for packaging. Retinoids are oxygen and light sensitive; this means airtight packaging, so aluminium or opaque tubes are the way to go. They may look chic, but avoid jars, droppers, and spatulas. Generally speaking active ingredients are vulnerable creatures, so you need to limit their exposure to the outside world.

Throughout all my retinoid mistakes, I did do one thing right: I only used it at night. Retinoids make your skin UV sensitive, so in addition to nighttime use you should wear SPF daily, even if you haven’t applied a retinoid for a few days.

Most skin damage happens from UV light and isn’t only found outside. Your computer, phone, and indoor lights all contribute to photo damage. So slather on a good SPF and use a stabilised Vitamin C in the morning to reduce damage from the great outdoors and infinite scroll.

After two years of consistent retinoid use I can tell you one thing: it fucking works. My crow’s feet are fading and my forehead has the reflective gleam of someone chemically forcing their skin to regenerate at the rate of a 24-year-old.

I’ve stopped thinking about Botox, and I’ve recalibrated how I pick products focussing on brands that have active, stabilised ingredients.

It’s rare to see buzzy skincare ingredients actually live up to the hype, and retinoids definitely hold up to even the most intense scrutiny.

Which brings me back to this point: while I’ll always feel conflicted about how I internalise beauty standards, for now, I’m just happy I don’t have to go anywhere near needles to give me the glow up I want. x

Stuff I’m currently into

Oiling my hair with a gentle champi every Sunday has been a ritual with my mother and I for nearly 20 years.

I’ve tried many oils over the years, but IndēWild’s Champi Oil has become a favourite. Read more about why I love it on my Instagram.

I really like how the brand is making ancient Indian rituals cool for a younger generation, but must it come at such a hefty price tag?

What do you think? Let’s chat about it in the comments.

xZ

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